The bauble-like red berries from the madroño tree emerge right around the time Madrid’s Christmas lights get switched on, making them seasonal but extremely easy to miss against the neon blare. However, if you look carefully you can find them all around the city. And you can certainly spot representations of the tree on everything from taxi logos to bins as the madroño, or strawberry tree, appears alongside the bear in Madrid’s coat of arms.
This is actually a weird state of affairs as botanists think the tree—which is strictly speaking a bush—was, unlike the now extinct bear, not native to Madrid. So why is it now an integral part of the city’s identity?
A King’s Cure and a Medieval Dispute
Legend has it that a Spanish king was once cured of the plague after drinking an infusion made from madroño leaves. However, the miraculous bush was only featured in the city’s heraldry after a 13th-century spat between Madrid’s city council and the church over land ownership. The dispute was resolved when the church was granted valuable farmland while the municipality got hunting grounds, hence the crown presides over the bear and strawberry tree combo.
Finding the Madroño in Madrid Today
If you’re feeling adventurous, you can sample the madroño berries yourself. They ripen between November and December, dotting the trees in parks and public spaces: check Retiro and the trees along Calle Mayor. The berries might be an acquired taste—gritty and not particularly sweet—so for a more palatable option, try the madroño liqueur. My favourite place for this is El Madroño, a bar near Plaza de la Puerta Cerrada, where the liqueur is served in chocolate-dipped wafer cups. It’s a delightful, festive treat that’s hard to find anywhere else.
To find out more, tune into my podcast and if you’re in Madrid and want someone to guide you around the city, then why not hire me? Get in touch to discuss prices and dates.
