Madrid is a city where romance thrives: from rooftop bars with breathtaking views, to passionate flamenco performances, to hidden gardens steeped in history. This guide to a romantic weekend in Madrid has everything you need, whether planning a surprise proposal, celebrating an anniversary, or just looking to escape together. From charming inns to candlelit dinners to gorgeous sunset views, there’s a good spread of activities here. And if you’re still not convinced it’s an excellent romantic destination, here’s the clincher: Madrid is home to the bones of Saint Valentine himself!
Friday Night: Traditional Vibes, Tapas, and Romantic Inns
Madrid has lots of incredible five-star accommodation options, from the newly-refurbished Four Seasons to the Mandarin Oriental Ritz with its romantic champagne bar. But if you’re looking for something with a bit of character and history, then try staying at a posada (traditional inn) down the historic Cava Baja. My favourite is Posada del Dragon, a cosy little boutique hotel and restaurant that still has its original timbered corrala courtyard intact.
The hotel opens right out onto Cava Baja, one of the best places to go out for drinks and tapas in the city. My favourite spots here are Casa Lucas, which is great for melt-in-your mouth bull’s tail and Taberna Tempranillo, which has an amazing wine list and an intimate vibe.
Saturday Morning: Exploring Madrid’s Secret Gardens and Rooftop Views
Start your day with breakfast out in the pretty square of Plaza de la Paja. Madrid generally enjoys blue skies and pleasant weather even in winter, so order breakfast out on the terrace seating – I love La Musa Latina for my coffee and croissant. This sloping square retains its original shape and is flanked by charming old buildings. At the top is the Bishop’s Palace and a 17th-century chapel, while at the bottom, you’ll find a gorgeous little garden where you can take a romantic stroll to admire the rose bower framing views of Madrid’s rooftops.
From here you can wander around the area discovering the cute little alleyways of La Latina. I recommend going into the Royal Basilica of San Francisco El Grande where there are fabulous frescos by Goya and heavenly domed ceilings or heading to the Mirador de Bailén viewpoint to take in stunning views of the Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral. Finally, drop by the Mercado de la Cebada to pick up some delicious nibbles to take with you to the park.
Saturday Afternoon: A Romantic Picnic and Art Museums
Pretty much anywhere in Retiro Park is a wonderful spot for a romantic picnic. However, the very best backdrop is by the lake outside the Palacio de Cristal where you can enjoy beautiful views of this late 19th-century greenhouse in all its splendour. This building and the nearby Palacio de Velazquez are annexes of the Reina Sofia art museums, so you’ll invariably find them open for free modern art exhibitions.
Art lovers can find even more to feast their eyes on nearby as Retiro is close to the museum district that runs along the leafy Paseo del Prado – a perfect place for a romantic stroll! The big hitter is the Prado museum itself but there’s also the Thyssen-bornemisza for a mix of classic and modern and the Reina Sofia for cutting-edge art.
Saturday Evening: Sunset at Templo de Debod and Fine Dining
Hands down the most romantic experience in Madrid has to be sunset from the Templo de Debod. This ancient Egyptian temple stands at the city’s best viewpoint where you can see the sun sink beyond Casa de Campo bathing the palace and the ancient stones in a beautiful rosy light. It can get busy but the atmosphere is friendly and festive.
Sunset in winter can be around 6.30 pm and in summer closer to 10 pm, so you’ll need to factor in dinner accordingly. Be aware that mealtimes in Madrid are fairly late and most restaurants don’t open until 8 pm at the earliest. A gorgeous Michelin-starred restaurant is conveniently nearby. Club Allard serves up a delicately presented tasting menu in a picture-perfect art-nouveau building. If that’s outside your budget, then I’d also suggest El Jardín Secreto Madrid, a cute little eaterie filled with foliage a few streets away.
Saturday Night: Experience Opera or Flamenco in Madrid
When it gets dark, head over to the Plaza de Oriente. With the Royal Palace lit up as a backdrop, it’s a magical spot at night. The best way to drink in this sight on a summer night is from the balcony of the Teatro Real, Madrid’s opera house. You’ll have to plan this one well in advance as opera and ballet tickets go fast as do tickets for flamenco. Fans of flamenco might also want to check out Corral de la Morería, the city’s best flamenco venue back in La Latina. With music ringing in your ears it’s time to wander home through the old heart of the city, finishing the evening off with a cocktail at the leafy rooftop bar of El Viajero.
Sunday Morning: Relaxing at Madrid’s Hammam Al Ándalus
Start the day with a massage and relaxing dip at the Hammam Al Ándalus, Arabic-style baths that give you an insight into Madrid’s Muslim origins. While this is not an original hamman, it was built on an old well constructed during the time of Al Andalus when Muslim hydro engineers harnessed the underground springs running under Madrid or Mayrit as it was called back in the day.
Sunday Afternoon: Rooftop Views, History, and the Bones of Saint Valentine
After your bath, head over to the Circulo Bellas Artes for lunch in the Azotea del Círculo, a rooftop restaurant with breathtaking views of the city. It’s best to book in advance as this venue is very popular. You also might want to check out the exhibitions inside, especially during the PhotoEspaña photography festival or even simply have a coffee on the Parisian-style terrace outside. The creation of Madrid’s most famous architect Antonio de Palacios, the whole venue oozes fin-de-siecle elegance so you won’t be disappointed.
A 15-minute walk away through Chueca is the Museo de Romanticismo, a cute little museum that’s pulsing with late-19th-century romantic vibes. Don’t miss the cafe in the pretty little garden before heading off to the Church of San Anton where you can see the bones of Saint Valentine himself in a gilded plush velvet box. It’s a quirky little church that also does pet blessings on Saint Anthony’s Day and provides shelter to the city’s homeless community.
Sunday Evening: A Grand Romantic Finale at Casa de Campo
To round off your romantic weekend take the metro three stops from Tribunal to Lago. This metro is located right by the lake in the huge park of Casa de Campo. If you’d like to explore the park you can rent electric bicycles by Principe Pio Station and cycle up to see amazing views of Madrid. Alternatively, rent a boat in the lake before having dinner out at one of the restaurants on the shoreline. With the strings of lights shimmering off the water, it’s a wonderfully romantic way to end your weekend in Madrid.
Visiting Madrid and want to know more about the city’s history? Then why not book me in for a tour? As the author of Lonely Planet Madrid guides, I know a thing or two about the city! Drop me a line to discuss dates and prices.
