Madrid’s Unsung Wines

Most people associate Spanish wine with the Rioja or Ribera del Duero regions. So it comes as a surprise that Madrid DO (Denominación de Origen) produces some truly exceptional wines that deserve more recognition. This topic was top of the agenda during my recent podcast interview with Luke Darracott, co-owner of Madrid & Darracott – who incidentally does an excellent podcast with his business partner, Roque Madrid, called The Spanish Wine Experience. A champion of the home-grown product, during a wide-ranging chat, Luke clued me in on this little-known but promising region: “Madrid is a wine area, but sadly, you’re not going to find any Madrid wine by the glass. There’s only like 45 wineries.”

Madrid’s Wine Regions

Madrid DO is huge and encompasses places like the remote but pretty village of San Martín de Valdeiglesias

Madrid’s Denominación de Origen (DO) is divided into four main subzones, each with distinct characteristics:

  • Arganda del Rey: The largest and most productive subzone, with vineyards producing robust reds and juicy whites from the local Malvar variety – a grape with a name that Luke says sounds like a Disney villain!
    Luke says: “That’s kind of our workhorse traditional area where it’s mostly Tempranillo… with other bits and bobs.”
  • Navalcarnero: Close to the infamous El Valle de los Caidos, the soils here produce lighter, fruit-forward Garnachas (made from the Grenache grape).
    Luke says: “That’s where you’re gonna start finding the great Garnacha.”
  • El Molar: This newest subzone features granite and slate soils with a cooler climate that makes it ideal for fresh, elegant Garnachas.
    Luke says: “They’re kind of the new, the cool kid on the block.”
  • San Martín de Valdeiglesias: The older vines surrounding the pretty town contribute to wines with finesse, and the rare Albillo Real white grape thrives here.
    “That’s where you’ll find these high-altitude, mountainside Garnachas.”

Madrid’s wines have only just begun to get noticed internationally, with publications like the New York Times writing about the region’s emerging winemakers. “The irony is, it’s always had wine, but they’re only just becoming popular, and it’s mostly those Garnachas,” Luke notes.

Where to Try Madrid Wines

A few Madrid wines in Madrid & Darracott

If you’re keen to sample Madrid wines, there are a few places you should visit:

Despite Madrid’s rich winemaking history, many bars still don’t carry local wines. “I think Madrid’s bars need to pull their socks up and stock the local stuff. It makes no sense that they don’t,” says Luke.

For more info about wines in Madrid you can check out the piece I wrote for The Financial Times.

If you’re coming to Madrid and need someone to show you around, then why not hire me, the author of this blog? Get in touch to discuss dates and prices.

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