Tucked away in the old part of Madrid is a street with an interesting saying attached to it: “Quien no pasa por Calle de la Pasa, no se casa.” This means: “Whoever doesn’t pass by Calle de la Pasa, won’t get married.” Surprisingly, this was not a superstition, the saying was 100% true if you lived in Madrid in the 18th century.
The Origins of Calle de la Pasa
The name of this quiet street comes from an old tradition of giving alms to beggars outside a residence here. Those in need would receive a small handful of raisins (pasas), from the side door of the archbishop’s residence at number three. Not only beggars dropped by this address. Couples hoping to get married would also need to visit.
The Archbishop’s Residence and Its Role in Marriage
For many years, you had to first stop by the Archbishop’s residence on Calle de la Pasa to be granted a marriage license. As pretty much everybody was Catholic at the time, this made the saying true. When the Archbishop’s residence later moved to Calle Bailén, the saying was adapted accordingly: “Si no pasas por Bailén, no te casas bien.” That is: “If you don’t pass by Calle Bailén, you won’t marry well.”
Incidentally, the archbishop’s main residence was not in Madrid but in Toledo, so you’d have to check he was in before a visit. The diocese in Toledo consistently blocked Madrid’s bid to become a cathedral city, even though Felipe II made Madrid Spain’s capital in 1561. This is why Madrid’s cathedral is so damn new and was only inaugurated in 1993!
A Personal Connection
Madrid’s marriage traditions still bear remnants of the past. Navigating the paperwork necessary to get married can sometimes feel like a modern version of making a pilgrimage to Calle de la Pasa! I myself found this out when I got married and was told the paperwork would be a lot easier if I was married in the Catholic church – to hear more about that take a listen to the pod!
Enter Quiet Madrid via Calle de la Pasa
This tucked-away street remains a peaceful refuge amidst Madrid’s bustling centre. With its rich history, narrow alleys, and old-world charm, it’s a perfect example of the quieter, more contemplative side of the city that I cover in my upcoming book Quiet Madrid. In it, I explore the hidden corners of Spain’s capital away from the tourist traps where visitors can experience life at a slower pace.
Are you interested in finding out more about Madrid’s history? Then why not book in for a tour with me, the author of The Making of Madrid. Get in touch to discuss dates and prices.
