In the heart of Madrid, where narrow streets tell tales of centuries past, lies an area that weaves together the story of Madrid’s 16th-century guilds, a visionary mayor, and one of the city’s most beloved literary characters. Welcome to Pontejos, a district that captures the essence of Madrid’s rich historical tapestry.
The Street of the Button-Makers
Our story begins with the Calle de los Botoneras (Button-Makers), a street that reminds us of Madrid’s guild history. Back in the day, this street buzzed with the activity of artisans who specialized in crafting buttons, a trade that was essential to supplying the nobility with the latest fashions. Interestingly, this business was dominated by women making them the most powerful all-female guild in the city. These craftsmen formed part of the city’s intricate network of guilds that helped shape Madrid’s commercial identity in medieval times and beyond.
While the button makers have given way to two famous shops selling the best calamari sandwiches in the city – as discussed in my podcast with Joy Figueroa – the nearby streets around the southeast corner of Plaza Mayor are still filled with shops selling fabric just as they were when the square was first built.
A Visionary Mayor
The area now takes its name from one of Madrid’s most progressive mayors, the Marquis of Pontejos, who served in the 19th century. His vision transformed Madrid into a modern city, strengthening its infrastructure. Under his leadership, the city saw the implementation of street numbers, street lighting, and significant urban improvements that helped modernize the capital.
A Literary Connection
Modern Madrid readers might recognize Pontejos from the pages of Elvira Lindo’s beloved children’s books featuring Manolito Gafotas. In these stories, the area’s famous haberdashery shops play a starring role, particularly the Almacen de Pontejos in the iconic Plaza de Pontejos. The latter is a veritable Aladin’s cave of buttons, ribbons and patches.
Today, the haberdashery shops remain a vital part of the neighbourhood’s character. Walking through the area, you can still find traditional stores where seamstresses and crafting enthusiasts browse through an endless array of buttons, threads, and sewing supplies – a living connection to the street’s historical roots as the home of Madrid’s button-makers.
A Living Legacy
The story of Pontejos is more than just a historical footnote; it’s a perfect example of how Madrid preserves its heritage while embracing modernity. From the medieval guild system to contemporary craft shops, from a reformist mayor to beloved fictional characters, Pontejos continues to be a crucial thread in Madrid’s urban fabric.
Are you interested in finding out more about Madrid’s history? Then why not book in for a tour with me, the author of The Making of Madrid. Get in touch to discuss dates and prices.